Rolex Watch Database--Stolen ROLEX

The Rolex database includes dates of service when a watch has been worked on at one of two authorized Rolex service centers – New York and Dallas.

Also included in the database is the serial number of watches reported stolen.

If a stolen watch is brought into an authorized service center for service, it will be confiscated. Information from the database is available to persons with legitimate nned to know, including law enforcement, insurance investigators, jewelers and others.

Telephone requests are not honored. There is no master registry of Rolex ownership.

Fax your requests on company letterhead to:

Rolex (Fax) 212-980-2166
Rolex: Telephone 212-758-7700
www.rolex.com

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ROLEX Day Date (Presidential) History

Released in 1956 after Rolex had been enjoying quite a barren spell in the sale of its manufactured complicated timepieces it soon began to revive fortune. This new 6511 the "Day Date" had a window at 12 spelling out the day at 12 and the date was shown at 3. Due to the complexity of the watch, with its automatic movement, additional day and date discs and a screw down back it was a very large and thick watch which gave it presence on the wrist. Introduced as a niche model it soon gained the popularity it deserves and after the introduction of the concealed clasp it was known as the "President"
The Day Date became Rolex's flagship and saviour. The first model (6511) lasted just over a year before it was replaced by the externally identical 6611. This model featured the new calibre 1055 movement with its free sprung Micro-Stella balance and was the first to be labelled " Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" on the dial. This new accuracy standard guaranteed the watch to remain within + 3.0 seconds per day.

The Day Date earned the nickname the "President" when Rolex reportedly gave one to the then President of the United States Dwight Eisenhower. It is believed that President Eisenhower was given this watch in conjunction with the launch of the concealed clasp.

These early models did not have the hack feature and appeared rather bulky. In their never ending quest to modernize the basic configuration of the Day Date, Rolex designers have changed from the bulbus bubbleback look of the early models to the slender shape employed today.
With only a few mild case design changes over the years the first modification to the Day Date was the addition of the hack feature in 1972. This allowed the second hand to be stopped dead if you wanted to set the time via a preset accurate source. At this time the shape of the head was essentially the same as it is today. The Day Date was available in white gold, yellow gold, pink gold and platinum although during the early 1930's the pink gold watch was fazed out.

The " Quick set " feature solved one of the watches biggest problems. Introduced in the late 1970's Quick set was added to all Rolex models by 1983. Instead of turning the crown round and round to change the date the wearer could just pull the button out half way and a few turns at most and the correct date was displayed.

The introduction of the quick set feature also coincided with other developments for the Day Date. The inclusion of the sapphire crystal not only gave the watch a sleeker look but also added to the durability of the watch. The sapphire crystal fitted tighter than the plastic glass employed before and rendered the watch glass scratch proof near enough. The early Day Date models were waterproof to 165 feet ( 50 meters) while the current model is safe at depths of up to 100 meters. At the same time the current model is much slimmer.

In addition to the advancements structurally and internally Rolex introduced a new number system that is still in use for today on some models. They added an extra digit to the model number. This number although denoted a new line actually represented the material the watch was when it left the product line.

Introduced at the end of 1990 was the "Double Quick Set" watch. This was model 18238 and it made the setting of the Day and Date even easier as they could both be done on the button. Rolex has also increasingly expanded their "Crown Collection" to include all types of precious stones by now although they were available with diamonds on the bezel from their introduction.

From the end of 2000 the Day Date has been available in pink gold again. The watch has also been introduced with a doomed sapphire mineral glass and can come on an oyster bracelet to bring it in line with many of their other models.

_____________________________________________________________________________________

RtRolex watch Caliber specification and year introduced:

3035 Date/Datejust/Submariner - 1977
3075 GMT II/ Explorer II - 1981
3085 GMT - 1977
3055 Day-Date - 1977
3000 Non Date - 1990
3135 Date/Datejust/Submariner - 1988
3175 GMT II/ Explorer II - 1988
3185 GMT - 1988
3155 Day-Date - 1988
3100 Air King/Sub non-date

2235 early 2000 in the lady Datejust

4155 starting in the 2001 day/date

4130 in house Daytona movement starting in the late A serial number 2000

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What do I do with the sticker?

This is a point that seems to come up so frequently, and wastes so much bandwidth, that it appears the time has come to settle this issue.

When one purchases a Rolex watch, new or preowned, simply remove the sticker and affix it to the paperwork you receive when the watch is purchased.

Why?

Well, if the watch is new, and the sticker is still in place, it will wear away over time.

If the watch is new and has no sticker, the absence of a sticker does not make the watch "false".

If the watch is "preowned", the presence of the sticker does not guarantee that it is a real Rolex.

So... have we determined that the presence/absence of a sticker should/should not be the determining factor?

I think so.

If someone purchases a Rolex watch based on a sticker being present, then good luck.

Keep the sticker on or take it off as you see fit. Given time it will wear away anyway...

What matters is "it a true Rolex"?

The placement of lettering, date numeral font, font placement, mechanism and many other factors are what really matter.

If one purchases a watches based on the presence of a sticker, I repeat, I can only wish you "good luck".

I'll buy many Rolex watches on the proviso that the watch does NOT have a sticker.

If your watch is running a little fast OR a little slow, Rolex suggests the following:
When you take your watch off at night, lay it in a position that assists in adjusting the time without the help of a specialist. If your Rolex is a little slow during the day, lay it flat, with dial up as this position tends to gain a few seconds during the course of the night. If the watch is running a few seconds fast, lay it in a vertical position with the crown down as this position will tend to lose a few seconds per night. If your Rolex is running several seconds fast per day, lay it in a vertical position with the crown up. This position tends to lose a few more seconds per night that the previously suggested position.

How much tritium was used when the dial and hands were made?
The units used to express the amount is micro curies. On some dials you will see the figure "<25"; that means that the dial, when new, had less than 25 micro curies. This is a goodly amount, for its purpose. The half life of tritium is 12-13 years, meaning that after that time has passed, half the original amount remains to excite the phosphors with which the tritium is mixed.

Does Rolex Make Rolex Movements?
Yes! But only recently.

Until recently, Rolex movements had always been made by (Herman) Aegler S.A. in Bienne, not Rolex -- they were still separate companies as far as I know, until recently when Rolex purchased the entire rights and the Aegler Company.
All this info needs to be posted somewhere on TZ so the same questions do not come up every few weeks. Things like the differences between the 1210, 1215, 1225, A260, 1030, 1530, 3035, 3000, 3130, 3135 etc -- differences between Datejust and Oyster Perpetual Date , case sizes, acrylic versus sapphire, etc., etc. These same questions are asked hundreds of times, sometimes they are answered correctly, sometimes not. Why not put the correct answers somewhere so they can be found .

Calibre 3035 date movements had a Breguet overcoil hairspring from day one. The no date cal 3000 always had a flat hs. The cal 3000 was a quick and dirty fast beat no date movement made from the 3035 to replace the 1530 base no date movements. The 3130 is basically a 3135 without the date works. The 3135 is quite a bit different from the 3035 and the most obvious difference looking at it is the balance bridge.
You can tell the 3035 from the 3135 and the 3000 from the 3130 without opening the case by the way the time is advanced...to set time ahead on the 3035/3000 the crown is turned CCW...on the 3135/3130 to set the time ahead the crown is turned CW.
There is very little difference between the 3130 auto assembly reversers and the reversers in the 3135. I doubt if anyone can tell the difference.
Misinformation and hype are the rule when it comes to the Rolex brand.
These same questions will be asked again in a few days and the answers will be totally different.
BTW, many Rolex fans say it must cost a whole lot more (maybe thousands of dollars) to make a Rolex chronometer movement compared to the common ETA. Maybe so, it will always remain a mystery because RWC sells movements one part at a time. If the cost of manufacture is reflected in parts prices, the only out of the ordinary (expensive) parts in a Rolex movement are in the FAR escapement. A balance complete for a Rolex 3135 sold for around $150 in 1995. A pallet fork was $30, and a complete reverser assembly was about $25. Average current cost of a balance assembly for the ETA 2824-2 is $20, pallet fork...$16, reverser...$17.
Nivarox FAR is owned by Swatch/ETA.
The lowly non chronometer ETA 2824-2 will cost over $400 when purchased one part at a time. A complete chronometer grade 2824-2 does not cost over $100.

The ability to screw in the crown (or pushers for that sake) has no influence on the watch's water resistance. The only purpose of screwing in crown or pushers is to make sure that they stay in close contact with the o-ring/seal/gasket. The screw threads themselves have nothing to do with water resistance.

However, Rolex, as the inventor of the waterproof wristwatch - realized that the threaded tube was a help in keeping the crown gaskets in close contact - but the threads have no water-resistance. Metal against metal is not able to keep water out.

"Glit FinishFast Synthetic Steel Wool - Fine Grade." It's readily available at Home Depot in CA. It's weird stuff, nothing like steel wool or sandpaper and it feels too fine to do anything. But trust me, it is all you need to get the EXACT ROLEX FACTORY BRUSHED FINISH in about 10 minutes. No exaggeration, this stuff is simply perfect for this application. It comes in 6"x9" pads which are ideal for the job and it's the perfect grade to remove scratches effectively but not too quickly lest too much metal be sacrificed, edges dulled, etc. I found that there is no need to use different grades, which I tried in the beginning since Glit has several grades. The only thing to know is to be very careful about brushing in the same direction. If you aren't careful, the fine brushed lines won't be straight upon very close inspection. I found that bending the links so you can do one link at a time ensures a perfect finish. Also, using cutting the pad in half (i.e. 6"x4.5"), but no more, is best.

The following post from Dennis (from a thread below) is an excellent example of how one should look at the performance of a mechanical watch.

A number of new owners of mechanical watches tend to look at a "snapshot" in time when they evaluate the accuracy and precision of their timepiece, usually a single 24 hour period.

If you ever have the opportunity to do so, take a look at a watch that's on a timer (like a vibragraph) and you'll see that it's constantly speeding up and slowing down, with its amplitude and rate changing in different positions.

Dennis' watch (he says) exhibits as much as 5 sec/day rate deviation from a reference, but yet it has - like all good movements - the ability to self-cancel these deviations during varied wear and storage patterns in the medium term.

Remember that with your Rolex (old or new) you're getting one of the best engineered movements on the market. They're not pretty, but they sure do work!

If you're watch is, say, 4 or 5 seconds fast (or slow) per day, and it maintains that rate on the wrist, on the night-stand, and in all or most positions, you have a truly superior performer there. That's called precision, and that's something that Rolex is really good at.

Additionally, if your watch exhibits slight rate fluctuations Additionally, if your watch exhibits slight rate fluctuations in different positions, and those fluctuations are consistent (key word), you still have excellent precision. The positional rate deviations are self-canceling.

In any case, your urge to check your watch against a reference (like WWV or Time.gov) two or three times a day will eventually fade, and you'll probably only check and adjust it when you change dates (or it quits from non-use). Then, you'll be able to finally enjoy that wonderful Rolex without the anxiety of ".....it's 3 seconds a day fast...what should I do?......."

Enjoy your watches

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How hard/easy is it to change a Rolex bezel insert? >>

To change a GMT bezel insert, I HAVE to say that, I can only state what has worked for me,, I can only say that I have done this to the aluminum inserts on the 16750, 16700, and 16710. The LATER GMT I 16700, when it went to the "ratcheting" bezel it is the same as the GMT II, 16710. There is a VERY small wire type spring that CAN be lost if you’re not careful. It is NOT under pressure, and won’t "fly" out,, but CAN fall out. It is located at about the 1:00 position,, To start. I use a small piece of hardwood that has one edge that has a "corner" or "sharpness" to it… I use the wood so it won’t damage the bezel. I hold the watch face down in my hand, and press the wood against back edge of the bezel, OPPOSITE the crown. I do this down in my lap, with my hand "cupped" around it, to keep all the pieces together when it comes off. You have to position a fingertip or two, against the crystal so you can apply some pressure against it… Now I press, Or "pop" the bezel loose, It takes a quick, solid, crisp move. The bezel will "snap" off. Now holding everything together, turn it all over,, and OVER a clean area, lift the bezel off. You’ll find the spring, and a VERY thin "washer" If you have a steady hand, you can remove the spring and washer, and with an old toothbrush, clean all the gunk from around the case there. Now, holding the bezel insert away from you, and thumbs tip to tip, press the insert out at one edge.. To re- install,, first,, Make sure that there is no "gunk" or debris in the bezel itself, that might interfere with the insert seating in the edge…it is a VERY thin edge that holds the insert, and even a small amount of debris can affect it,,, Now, there are TWO ways to reinstall the new insert, The first is to reinstall the new insert into the bezel BEFORE replacing the bezel assembly.. I prefer to use the second method, because on the GMT’s with the "ratchet" action,, it IS possible for the "triangle" not to line up perfectly with 12:00. So, I reinstall the bezel, WITHOUT the insert, I hook one edge of it on the spring at the 1:00 position, and then after centering it over the crystal, press it down all the way around. You will hear a "snap", but it is STILL possible that it is NOT down all the way. You have to rotate it around and see if it operates smoothly. NOW,, I insert the edge of the insert with the "triangle" lined up with the 12:00, and then with my fingers, work the insert all the way in. You will get the opposite edge of the insert and MAY not be able to get it all the way in with you bare fingers. I use something that won’t mar it like a Popsicle stick or similar object. The inserts are anodized aluminum and can be scratched fairly easily…AGAIN,, I am NO expert,, but I’m only stating what works for me…. I watched a very good watchmaker do mine the first time. I don’t know how many times they could be changed before you would risk "loosening the bezel. I don’t I’ve changed mine dozen’s of times I think that if done carefully, it wouldn’t hurt it,……..Hope this helps,,,, Kevin…..

Info about COSC testing :courtesy Paul Schliesser	Jan 09, 1999 - 04:02 AM

Much of this is from a post of mine from June. The same questions seem to keep coming up, so I thought I'd edit it and repost it. Even though you often see people on the forum suggesting this, the COSC is not used as a way for a manufacturer to do quality control or to test their movements--the tests are much too expensive for that, and their failures become part of the public record. The only reason movements are sent to the COSC is to pass the tests and get a chronometer certificate. The COSC doesn't rubber-stamp all movements, even though something like 95% of them pass. Since the companies pay a hefty price for the testing (I think it is the equivalent of about $200-$250 per movement), they will have passed very stringent quality control by the manufacturer first--the manufacturer is only going to send movements that they are sure will pass, since they still need to pay for the ones that fail. There is an early grace period, so if a movement has problems and it is obvious after the first couple of days that it will not pass, it can be withdrawn and only a partial fee must be paid. Watches that fail after the grace period pay the entire fee. The most common reason for failure is that the movement stopped during testing. I would imagine that many problems are the result of all the shipping and handling that these movements would get. COSC testing doesn't really mean anything significant. It is only an independent test with a certificate awarded for passing. A watch from a decent manufacturer might perform as well as, or better than, than the COSC standards, whether or not is has a certificate. JLC's Master series watches undergo much more stringent tests than the COSC administers, and are tested in their actual cases. Movements that go to the COSC are mounted in temporary cases, with hands and dials, for testing purposes. After they come back from testing, they are put into their real cases. Watches with no second hand are sent for testing with a temporary second hand fitted. There is a picture in the Chronometer Watches and Their Testing book (available from the TimeZone bookstore), which shows chronometer movements under test being wound with a small motor. All watches under test get wound by their crowns, even automatics. The winding device is smallish and looks like a dentist's drill or a Dremmel motor tool. The business end is a cup that fits over the crown, like a socket wrench. The movements cases are threaded one-after-the-other on long straps, about 10 to a strap. There are about 10 of these straps mounted in a rack or frame, so that if you look at the frame from the front, you see 100 watch faces equally spaced in rows and columns. During testing, the entire rack, with cased movements attached, is placed in the various positions, and moved into the hot and cold testing areas. (Very old chronometer certificates refer to the "oven" and the "refrigerator.") Instead of trying to read the time on each face when the daily test results are recorded, in the past they took a photograph of each rack, including a reference timepiece in the photo. This would record the position of each second hand in the rack, at the same instant, and would make it possible to read the indicated time on each face to a fraction of a second, as well as documenting the correct time on the reference timepiece. The photographic negative would be read under magnification, and the test sheet for each movement would be filled out. Today, a laser scans across the rack and reads the position of each second hand, and the test results are stored as a computer file. Automatic watches are wound once a day, by their crowns. They are happier in real life, where they are constantly wound during the day by their rotors, and their mainspring tension stays fairly constant. Because of this, they tend to perform slightly less well in testing than they do in real life--they run a little slow. The opposite is true for handwinds, which do slightly better in testing than they do in real life. Some companies regulate their autos slightly fast before they go to the COSC, to compensate for the once-a-day winding, then regulate them slower again when they come back. Rather than absolute accuracy, which can be regulated easily if the watch runs slightly fast or slow, the most significant aim of COSC testing is to test for consistency in different positions and temperatures. This is primarily a test of the balance and hairspring. I had a conversation about this with Walt O. once, and he said that the balance and hairspring are part of a module which is not taken apart even when the watch is serviced, so a watch that performs well in testing should do so as long as this is not tampered with. In the Chronometer book, the author reports on a large number of vintage chronometers, mostly from the 1950s and 60s, which he has repaired and serviced and then subjected to simulations of their original COSC tests. Most of them could still pass, once they were returned to good running condition. One thing that the book impressed upon me is the extreme difficulty of making a mechanical watch perform well in all positions and at different temperatures. The COSC standards are compromised from an ideal, so that the standards fall within ranges that can be met realistically in mass production. The standards have been influenced by the companies, and were loosened slightly during the early years of the COSC, because they were too difficult for the movements of the time, and too many watches failed. There were once "passed" and "passed with distinction" ratings, but today movements either pass or fail. The standards have gotten tighter over the years. In some instances, the methods of calculating and recording a watch's performance, rather than the actual test itself, can be questioned. For instance, if the watch runs -5 seconds in one position, and +8 in another, this falls within the test range because the deviation is measured from 0. However, the range of variation is 13 seconds. The deviations caused by temperature change are listed not by total variation, but by variation per degree of temperature change. A .5 second change per degree looks pretty good, but if you multiply it by 20 degrees, 10 seconds doesn't look so good. The results are not fudged, but the way they are reported makes most watches sound better than they are. Just to repeat, the book explains how difficult it is to build a mechanical watch, in large quantities, which will perform consistently under changes of position and temperature. Seeing the issue from both sides, I personally don't have any problem with the test standards. However, I also don't think the certificate is as significant as some people do. You can be smart and well-educated, and yet not have a college degree, but some people are more likely to trust what you say if you have diplomas and certificates on your wall. If your watch has a COSC certificate, it means that it was able to pass a bunch of tests under artificial conditions. Someone with a diploma was also able to pass a bunch of tests under artificial conditions. In both cases, your real-world results may differ.

MODEL NUMBER AND MATCHING CALIBER

Model # Movement Caliber

1002 1560-1570
1003 1560-1570
1004 1560
1005 1560-1570
1006 1560
1007 1560-1570
1008 1560-1570
1009 1560-1570
1010 1560-1570
1011 1560-1570
1012 1560-1570
1013 1560-1570
1014 1560
1016 1560-1570
1018 1560-1570
1019 1580
1022 1560-1570
1023 1560-1570
1024 1560-1570
1025 1560-1570
1026 1560
1027 1560-1570
1028 1560
1029 1560-1570
1030 1560-1570
1031 1570
1035 1570
1036 1570
1038 1570
1039 1570
1500 1565-1575
1500 1565-1575
1501 1565-1575
1501 1565-1575
1502 1565-1575
1503 1575
1503 g 1565-1575
1504 1565-1575
1505 1565-1575
1506 1565-1575
1507 1565-1575
1508 1565-1575
1509 1565-1575
1510 1565-1575
1511 1575
1512 1575
1512 1575
1513 1575
1514 1575
1530 1575
1550 1575
1600 1565-1575
1601 1565-1575
1602 1565-1575
1603 1565-1575
1604 1565-1575
1605 1565
1607 1565-1575
1610 1565-1575
1611 1565-1575
1625 1565-1575
1630 1575
1655 1575 GMT
1665 1575
1675 1565-1575 GMT
1680 1575
1802 1555-1556
1803 1555-1556
1804 1555-1556
1805 1555
1806 1555-1556
1807 1555-1556
1808 1555
1809 1555-1556
1810 1555-1556
1811 1555-1556
1812 1555
1813 1556
1814 1556
1815 1556
1831 1556
5500 1520-1530
5501 1520-1530
5502 1530
5504 1520-1530
5505 1530
5506 1530
5508 1530
5510 1530
5512 1530a´1570
5513 1520-1530
5516 1530
5518 1530
5520 1520
5552 1520-1530
5590 1520-1530
5700 1525-1535
5701 1525-1535

6084 A.260
6085 A.260
6085/9 A.260
6088 A.260
6090 A.260
6092 A.260
6098 A.296
6099 A.296
6100 A.260
6101 A.260
6102 A.260
6103 A.260
6104 A.296
6105 A.296
6106 A.260
6107 A.260
6108 A.260
6109 A.260
6110 A.260
6111 A.260
6112 A.296
6113 A.260
6114 A.260
6115 A.260

6117 A.260
6118 A.260
6119 A.260
6121 A.260
6143 A.260
6150 A.296
6152 16"
6152/1 16"
6154 16"
6155 A.296
6200 A.296
6202 A.260
6204 A.260
6205 A. 260
6206 A.260
6227 A.260
6228 A.260
6238 13" 72B 722
6239 13" 72B 722
6240 13" 72B 722
6241 13" 722
6262 13" 727
6263 13" 727
6264 13" 727
6265 13" 727
6284 A.260

Model # Movement Caliber

6285 A.260
6286 A.260
6290 A.260
6292 A.260
6298 A.296
6299 A.296
6300 A.260
6301 A.260
6303 A.260

6304 A.296
6305 A.296
6305/1 A.296
6305/2 A.296
6307 A.296
6309 A.296
6332 A.260
6334 A.260
6350 A.296
6352 A.296
6353 A.296
6406 1315
6410 1310
6411 1310
6418 1210
6420 1210
6421 1210
6422 1210
6423 1210
6424 1210
6425 1210
6426 1210-1220
6427 1210-1220
6429 1220
6430 1210-1220
6431 1210-1220
6432 1210
6444 1210
6466 1215-1225
6480 1210
6494 1215
6498 1215
6500 1030
6502 1030
6503 1120
6504 1120
6505 1120
6506 1120
6507 1120
6508 1130
6509 1120
6510 1055
6511 1055
6512 1000
6513 1135a´1165
6514 1135a´1165
6515 1120
6516 1135a´1166
6517 1135a´1166
6518 1035
6519 1135a´1166
6520 1135a´1166
6521 1135a´1166
6522 1100
6523 1100
6524 1166
6525 1100
6526 1120
6527 1135a´1166
6528 1130
6529 1135a´1166
6530 1035
6531 1135a´1166
6532 1030
6533 1135a´1166
6534 1036
6535 1036

6536 1030
6536/1 1030
6537 1036
6538 1030
6538A 1030
6540 1030
6541 1080
6542 1036 GMT
6543 1080
6544 1161
6545 1161
6546 1120
6547 1130-1160
6548 1130a´1161
6549 1130a´1161
6551 1130a´1161
6552 1030
6553 1130a´1161
6554 1130a´1161
6555 1130-1160
6556 1040
6557 1130-1160
6558 1040 B
6559 1130-1160
6564 1030
6565 1030
6566 1030
6567 1030
6559 1030
6571 1160-1161
6580 1030
6581 1030
6582 1030
6583 1030
6584 1030
6585 1030
6586 1030
6587 1030
6590 1030
6592 1030
6593 1030
6594 1030
6598 1030
6599 1030
6602 1065
6604 1065
6605 1065
6609 1065
6610 1030
6611 1055
6612 1055
6613 1055
6614 1030
6615 1130a´1161
6616 1130a´1160
6617 1130a´1161
6618 1130a´1161
6619 1130a´1161
6620 1130a´1161
6621 1130a1161
6622 1130-1160
6623 1130a1161
6624 1135a´1166
6625 1135a´1166
6626 1135
6627 1135a´1166
6628 1135
6629 135a´1166
6630 1135a´1166
6631 1135a´1166
6632 1165-1166

Model # Movement Caliber

6633 1166
6634 1030
6635 1166
6636 1135
6638 1135-1165
6639 1135a´1166
6646 1036
6594 1215-1225
6700 1135-1165
6701 1135a´1166
6702 1135a´1166
6703 1165-1166
6704 1166
6705 1166
6706 2030
6707 2030
6710 2030
6711 2030
6712 2030
6713 2030
6715 2030
6717 2030
6718 2030
6719 2030
6720 2030

6721 2030
6723 2030
6724 2030
6744 2030
6745 2030
6747 2030
6748 2030
6749 2030
6751 2030
6753 2030
6754 2030
6757 2030
6771 2030
6800 1130-1160
6801 1130-1160
6802 1130a´1161
6803 1160-1161
6804 1161
6806 1161
6807 1161
6824 2035
6825 2035
6827 2035
6828 2035
6829 2035
6830 2035
6831 2035
6832 2035
6833 2035
6835 2035
6838 2035
6839 2035
5900 2035
5901 2035
5902 2035
5903 2035
5904 2035
5905 2035
5906 2035
5907 2035
5913 2035
5914 2035
5916 2035
5917 2035
5919 2035
5920 2035
5921 2035
5924 2035
5927 2035
5929 2035
5933 2035
7016 2461-2483
7017 1895
7019 1895
7020 1895
7021 2484
7024 2772
7025 2772
7031 7734
7032 7734
7106 2772
7149 234
7159 234
7159 234
7206 2784
7535 2546
7575 2554
7576 2555
7580 2554
7581 2555
7582 2555
7583 2554
7586 2554
7588 2554
7590 2554
7592 2555
7594 2555
7596 2555
7597 2554
7599 2554
7600 2555
7602 2555
7604 2650
7605 2650
7606 2651
7607 2651
7614 2650
7615 2650
7616 2651
7637 2651
7924 390
7926 1475-3475
7928 390
7934 1156-1182
7935 1173
7950 390
7957 1156
7959 1156
7960 2402
7961 2403
7962 2403
7963 2461-2483
7964 2462-2484
7965 2462-2483
7966 2462-2484
7967 2461
7968 2462
7959 2461-2483
7970 2462-2484

Model # Movement

Caliber

9000 2750
9010 2763
9020 2776
9021 2776
9031 2776
9041 2776
9050 2784
9051 2784
9061 2784
9071 2784
9080 2784
9081 2784
9090 2784
9091 2671
9101 2784
9111 2784
9121 2784
9130 940.111
9140 940.111
9200 1173
9210 2670
9211 2670
9220 2670
9221 2670
9230 2671
9231 2671
9240 2671
9241 2671
9301 2651
9303 2671
9311 2651
9313 2671
9321 2651
9323 2671
9333 951.111
9343 951.111
9401 2776
9411 2784
9420 7750
9421 7750
9430 7750

10050 3475
14060 3000
14270 3000
16000 3035
16003 3035
16008 3035
16009 3035
16013 3035
16014 3035
16018 3035
16019 3035
16030 3035
16078 3035
16250 3035
16253 3035
16258 3035
16518 4030
16519 4030
16520 4030
16523 4030
16528 4030
16568 4030
16589 4030
16589 4030
16570 3185
16600
16610 3135
16613 3135
16618 3135
16628
16660 3035
16750 3075
16753 3075
16758 3075
16800 3035
16808 3035
17000 5035
17013 5035
18026 3055
18028 3055
18029 3055
18038 3055
18039 3055
18046 3055
18048 3055
18049 3055
18078 3055
18079 3055
19018 5055
19019 5055

66466 1210
90020 2750
90120 2763
90220 2776
90230 2776
90330 2776
90433 2776
90520 2784
90530 2784
90630 2784
90733 2784
90910 2671
90920 2784
90953 2784
91500 940.111
91513 940.111
91514 940.111
91613 940.111
92100 2670
92113 2670
92200 2670
92213 2670
92300 2671
92314 2671
92401 2671
92413 2671
94010 2776
94110 2884
94200 7750
94210 7750
94300 7750
94400 2671
94500 2834
94510 2834
94613 2834
94614 2834

Many thanks to Timezone, Watchnet and The Rolex Forum users from whom most of this information was gathered.